![]() ![]() Seems like that wouldn't hold much to me, it makes no sense the more I think about it but I didn't know what to look for. I mean, as far as I can tell the rivets were just into the wood maybe a little more than 1/8 inch (into 3/8 ply), not through and all that is holding them in is the fact that they are bulging out a little bit more than the hole they are plugged into. He specifically states in the auction that they are rugged and heavy duty, that seems like a bold face lie now that I see how it is put together. But I will mention to him that he should either re-word his auctions and say these cases really should not be used to carry anything of serious weight or build better cases. Although it does state that it's a case designed to hold amps and I feel that it's certainly not built that way unless someone really DID get hurt I won't go there. I hear ya about the liability of this thing but, nah, I feel that in the grand scheme of things, someone has to break the chain of shadiness. ![]() Kinda like agehorse pointed out "a deal that isn't a deal" In your communications/negotiations you could casually mention that your lawyer thinks you've got a good product liability case, since someone was hurt when the handle broke off. Buy your rivets at a fastener store rather than a hardware store and you'll probably get a lot better price. I bought a really, really nice one in a pawn shop awhile back for $10. Standard sized handles and other similar dish hardware do have backing plates available, which are the best way to go to make a really solid assembly. When you replace the rivets, and if the rivets are going into wood without metal on the backside, using backing washers is a best management practice. If it's a one man job removing the rivets, I prefer to use small needle nose Vise-grips to hold the back side of the rivet if it is spinning in the hole. This is to remove the head from the body. I use a bit that's somewhat bigger than the nominal size of the rivet shank. In extreme cases if appearance isn't a big factor I've had to chisel the offending head off and then push the rivet body through Needle nose pliers really help in this situation. A 1/8" bit should work okay, the biggest problem is having the rivet spin along with the bit. Yes, drill out the rivets, one or a few at a time, and replace with whatever fastener you've chosen. If a case that heavy with only 2 handles can take what I give it, yours should have been able to. I have a couple heavy cases, but 2 in particular that weigh somewhere around 250lbs, and they only have one handle per side. Or you might look at replacing that case altogether.Īny handle should be able to hold several hundred pounds without any trouble, this is the kind of thing that shouldn't happen. If the wood is too broken, you might look at getting larger handles and routing the hole larger, and riveting it correctly. If they used split rivets, they did a bad job of it, but you can replace them with pop rivets as well. If the case used pop rivets with no backing washers (which is what it sounds like), the best way to fix it is to re-rivet it using the right length rivets and backing washers, as long as the wood isn't too broken up. If a split rivet was too short, it may not have seperated properly, and not given you enough strength. Split rivets still go all the way through, and kind of wrap around the other side. Split rivets can be fairly flush with the inside of the case, while pop rivets will stick out at least 1/8". I've seen some case makers that use split rivets for everything, which I don't personally care for, but when they do that they use a backing washer to keep the rivets from tearing out. Really nice professional finish.Generally speaking, "good" cases use split rivets for the handles or anything else that's going into wood, and use split rivets on ball corners or anything else that's going into metal. so you should plan on using a material (such as leather, weave, or cloth) that you sew together around the D ring. The D rings are closed.they are not intended to be opened. Perfect for any purse, brief case, or shoulder bag. ![]() Can be used to add a leather shoulder strap to a musical instrument case, such as guitar or bass. Heavy duty parts will take alot of weight. *Mounting plate fasteners -such as screws- not included, since every application is different.ĭ ring is one and 1/8th" wide.interior opening will allow for approximately a 7/8" to one inch strap depending on the material you are using. Mounting plate is steel and is 2 inches in length / brass (gold) plated. D rings are a perfect fit under the steel mounting plate.Ĭomes with 2 D rings and 2 mounting plates. This is a set of brass D rings and mounting plates.perfect for adding a shoulder strap or handle to many applications. ![]() From RetroGuitarparts vintage guitars + parts. ![]()
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